Rumors broke that a D3100 will be launching sometime in August and could merge the functions of the existing D3000 and the somewhat aging D90, at a cheaper price.  Also potentially coming would be the first to market, auto-focus for live video, and 1080p HD video.  Considering the explosion and instant love users have of the video functions already, and the third-party market for follow focus rigs, adding the ability to auto-focus on a DSLR could open up the creativity for millions of new users.  Users who have been frustrated with the lack of auto-focus or have been putting off upgrading may find this all the reason they need to do so.  Additionally, an 11-point auto-focus system, or potentially more, could be in store for the D3100 too.

Looking forward, Nikon has lots of room to continue growth through 2012.  Their current lineup is essentially broken into three categories:

• Beginner, or first DSLR
• Hobbyist, advanced hobbyist or weekend warrior
• Professional

The entry level offerings from Nikon offer a competitive price-point compared with similarly equipped point and shoot cameras, but add the flexibility of interchangeable lenses, wireless flash control (when an additional speedlight is purchased) and complete lack of shutter lag.  Many shooters who have grown frustrated with their point and shoots or simply need specialized tools, like longer lenses for shooting their childrens’ sporting events will buy these cameras.  The advantage to them is Nikon has already established how to make a great DSLR and the trickle-down effect is in play.  That is to say, proven technology in ISO, auto-focus speed and image quality in older, higher end cameras gets recycled and used in these entry level cameras.  Don’t get this mistaken though, there’s nothing old about them.  The future of entry level Nikon DSLRs holds what the current pro models offer – far superior ISO range, wider dynamic color range and faster frames per second.

The middle range of Nikon cameras, where the majority of shooters end up buying, still follows some of the trickle-down effect mentioned earlier, however in a much different, and better way.  Each new release offers more camera for less money, essentially making your purchase last longer and provide more features and benefits.  With the introduction of the D3100, inexpensive 1080p HD video will be available to the masses, especially those who already own Nikon compatible lenses.

Professional level cameras, currently the D3 series from Nikon, are the fastest, biggest and best cameras offered.  Superior build quality, great sensors and all the speed in the world make these cameras the tools professionals use day in and day out.  This is also where newer technology is often focused, even if these expensive pieces aren’t the market share of Nikon DSLRs.  The D3 range of Nikons is top of the food chain for the trickle-down effect.  The 100,000 ISO level has already been accomplished, it’s within reason we could see ISO in the range of 200-250,000 ISO by 2012, along with frames per second exceeding 12.

The past has a long, rich history for Nikon, current market share is strong and the future looks even better as Nikon continues to evolve and set the pace for the best DSLRs on the market.

Canon EOS Rebel XS

Canon’s least expensive offering packs a powerful punch.  Sporting 10mp, 7-point auto focus and 3 frames per second, the Rebel line of digital cameras has a lot to offer beginners without compromising quality.  It’s also Canon’s smallest and lightest DSLR to market, making it a great 2nd camera for many shooters who don’t want to lug their pro camera around.

The Rebel XS can use every auto-focus EF mount lens Canon offers as well as the EF-S lens mount made especially for cropped sensor cameras. For the money, this is one of the best deals to be had.

Canon EOS Rebel T2i

Canon also offered up an improved T-model camera, the T2i.  Sporting an 18mp sensor with ISO capable of 12,800, this entry level camera has professional quality features.  9-point auto-focus, a larger 3.0″ LCD screen and 3.7 frames per second are some of the improvements over the previous generation camera.  What’s most appealing in this low-price beginner camera however is the HD movie feature.

It’s the only entry-level camera on the market to offer HD video at an otherwise astounding price point.  Again, this camera is compatible with all of Canon’s EF and EF-S mount lenses.

Nikon D3000

Nikon’s beginner line of cameras offers some serious specs, including a 10.2mp sensor, SDHC memory card storage and 3 frames per second.  11-point auto-focus is enough to make sure your photos are always sharp and a high ISO of 3200 for the low light shots.

Compact, lightweight and easy to use, Nikon’s D3000 is compatible with the large line of Nikkor lenses available and has standard camera modes plus a slew of creative modes.

Sony Alpha A230

After taking over the Konica-Minolta Sony continues to make great digital SLRs.  The Alpha A230 has a 10.2mp sensor, in-camera image stabilization and a 2.7″ LCD screen.  The A230 accepts Sony Memory Sticks in addition to SDHC memory cards.

Additionally, of all beginner DSLR models, the A230 is the most affordable, yet still performs like a pro level camera.  Small, like the other beginner cameras, lightweight and easy to take with you anywhere.

Olympus Evolt E520

Olympus changed the game when they entered the DSLR market, offering some of the most ergonomically adept cameras that were affordable and geared towards photographers.  They consistently work towards building easy to use cameras for beginners and the E520 is just that.

10mp sensor, industry leading in-camera image stabilization and advanced features like face detection and shadow adjustment technology puts the E520 at the top of the back for beginners and advanced shooters.

Pentax K2000

Perhaps one of the most user friendly beginner DSLRs this year is the somewhat lesser known Pentax K2000.  Similar to the other cameras, it has a 10.2mp sensor, is small, lightweight and easy to shoot.  What sets it apart is the built in features geared towards those first-time DSLR buyers.  They include shake reduction for slower shutter speed shots, a dedicated Help button for the menu system and an Advanced Auto Picture mode to help select the right mode for any given shooting situation.  The K2000 will also accept all Pentax lenses.

Entry level digital SLR cameras no longer means lower quality and less features.  On the contrary, more features are being built into cameras now at a dropping price point, and these fully featured beginner cameras are giving point and shoot cameras a run for their money.

With the D700s versatile ISO base range of 200-6400 that can be expanded to ISO 100 (Lo-1) to 25,600 (Hi-2) you’ll be able to take amazingly clear images in any lighting.  For the first time, the D700 has a self cleaning system that is designed for the FX-format sensor with four distinct vibration sequences that occur at start up and shut down as well as any time with manual control.  If you’re looking for responsiveness, you’ll find it in this camera because it starts in a mere .12 seconds and also has a shutter-lag response time of .40 milliseconds.

The Nikon D700 also features:

• 12.1 mega-pixel FX-format CMOS image sensor for exceptional image quality
• Multi-CAM 3500FX auto focus sensor that’s one of the fastest and most accurate in the market today
• 15 cross-type sensors and 36 horizontal sensors that can be used individually or in groups
• high-strength magnesium alloy for increased durability in all environments.

If you’re a seasoned photographer or a professional, this would make a fantastic camera for you.  It has amazing speed and clarity with numerous settings that will give you a wide variety of photo options.  With its rugged and durable design, it’s also a camera that you can take with you anywhere. Take the next step d purchase a Nikon D700 today.

It’s important to know when shopping for a used camera lens to inquire that it’s compatible with your newer digital SLR camera.  To further complicate things, Canon has two different lens mounts for digital cameras too.

Modern Canon digital SLR cameras utilize two mount types and it’s important to know what which type you have and it’s compatibility with lenses.  The two types are:

• EF
• EF-S

Every Canon digital SLR camera body can use the EF mount lens system, however the consumer grade cameras, including the Rebel line and the D line (50d / 40d / etc.) with the exception of the 10d can also accept the EF-S lens mount.  More on this in a minute.

Lens size comparison starts to get a little bit complicated because of the cropped sensors that most digital SLR cameras have.  To help keep costs down, most companies use a digital sensor in the camera that is much smaller compared to an actual 35mm negative.  There are a few cameras that utilize a full frame sensor and they include the Canon 5d mkII, Nikon D3 and a handful of other, usually fairly expensive pieces.

So why is the sensor size important to lens size?  Because smaller sensors in cameras crop.  This is sometimes called magnification, however it’s really cropping the image down.  This crop factor is in the specifications for each and every camera and it’s important to know as it will effect the focal length of your lens.

For example, non-full frame Canon cameras have a 1.6x crop to them.  That means that the traditional 100mm f/2.8 macro lens is now effectively a 160mm macro lens.  This cropped sensor usually works out really well for sports shooters, as you can imagine.  When you want to shoot wide angle or fisheye though, it can present a problem.  Traditionally, a 20mm lens is considered very wide for film or full frame shooters, but on a 1.6x crop it’s a 32mm lens, which isn’t very wide.  Canon and several third party lens companies make EF-S mount only lenses, like Canon’s 10-22mm lens just for this specific reason.  On a 1.6x cropped sensor, the 10-22mm lens is effectively a 16-35mm lens.

It’s important to know when you buy lenses that you do the math for their effective focal length and when possible try them out before purchasing for this very reason.

Each camera is different, some Nikon’s crop at 1.5x, Olympus crops at 2.0x, Some Canon’s crop at 1.6x while others at 1.3x.  The effective focal length of your lens can vary from body to body and could positively or negatively effect your photographs outcome.

The 50D also features a 3 inch LCD screen for high resolution viewing with 920,000 pixels and a broad viewing angle of 160 degrees both vertically and horizontally that will resist smudges.  With advanced Live View shooting and Face Detection Live mode, you can take images 5x to 10x normal size for critical focus. Making all of this even better is the easy control you can achieve by connecting to your computer.

When you purchase the Canon EOS 50D  you’ll also be getting:

• 9 cross-type high-precision censors that gives you accurate subject acquisition
• Lens Peripheral Illumination setting that compensates for light falloff in the corners
• Self cleaning sensor unit that uses vibrations to keep dust off your camera
• Dust delete data detection that makes sure you get spec-free images
• HDMI output for displayed high resolution images on  your HDTV

The Canon EOS 50D is the perfect camera for any photographer.  With the collection of its magnificent features and easy to use settings, you’ll be able to take a high quality picture with speed and accuracy.  The EOS 50D is also compatible with over sixty EF and EF-S lenses and most Canon accessories.  If you’re looking for an amazing camera, this one is for you.

Digital SLR Body

Any digital SLR body will work, however you’ll get better results with one that shoots a faster frames per second, or FPS.  Anything that offers 5 FPS or more will give you a better chance of capturing the fast moving action.  Additionally, cameras with cropped sensors often work best because they extend the focal distance of your lens.

For example, many Canon cameras offer a 1.6x crop, including the Rebel series and the 50d.  That means a 100mm lens has an effective focal distance of 160mm, essentially giving you a free 60mm.  This is really helpful when you’re shooting to the far side of the field.  Lastly, newer camera bodies feature the best performing sensors in low light.  Since many practice sessions and games happen on weeknights with the later portion of the match going towards dusk, high ISO performance becomes important.

DSLR Lenses

Longer and faster you have, the better.  But, there are some workarounds to get you professional level shots, and some other options.  Sports fields are big, covering long distances, so the chances that your child will be within 20′ for more then a few seconds is going to be slim, even if you walk up and down the sidelines.  You’ll want a long lens, at least 200mm, and one that zooms.

Canon’s 100-400mm lens covers a broad range and is great for getting in close, but it’s not the fastest lens out there, meaning it doesn’t have a wide depth of field.  To compensate, you’ll need a body that does very well at higher ISO settings.  Canon also makes a more pro-sumer lens, the 75-300IS, which is also not super wide but for the money covers a great range.  Professional grade lenses like Canon and Nikon’s 70-200 f/2.8′s are expensive, but really do provide the best results.

If the thought of buying a $2,000 lens scares you a bit, rent one!  Many local camera stores and several online sites rent lenses (and camera bodies) for a few days to a few weeks at very reasonable rates.  See what a difference a great lens can make in your photography.

DSLR Accessories

A lens hood is essential when shooting sports outside.  They not only help to physically protect the end of your lens, they drastically reduce glare.  Not sure how they work?  Go outside on a sunny day and look across your yard, then put a baseball hat on or hold your hand to your eyebrows with it parallel to the ground.  The brim or your hand will prevent glare, but also give you a better meter reading and photos with more contrast, resulting in brighter, more vibrant colors.

A mono pod is also a great accessory for shooting sideline sports, because it’s far more mobile then a tripod and will give you extra stability when shooting, extremely helpful when shooting on longer lenses.  Large plastic bags are also your best friend.  In the event of rain, you might be on the wrong side of the field from where your car is parked, but having a large plastic bag to throw over your camera and / or your working bag could save your camera gear from water damage.  I always keep one tucked into my bag, just in case.

It is everything a workhorse lens should be.  Fast at f/2.8 for low light and great depth of field and perhaps the best working distance for everyday photography around.  I’ve found that on both cropped and full frame camera bodies the working distance to be near perfect for everything from weddings and parties to portraits and studio work.  This lens simply shines.  The 24-70 focuses very fast and unlike some similar heavy lenses, doesn’t dance around trying to find a focal point. Build quality is second to none and exemplifies everything that is the Canon L line; rugged, built to perform and stands up to every day use.

There are a few drawbacks to lens though.  The most obvious is the price, it’s expensive.  Nearly three times the cost of a similar Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 lens, which I have also shot so can make comparisons.  It’s a heavy lens, really heavy.  Tipping the scales at 2.1 pounds it can be a bit much to carry and shoot all day long.  Lastly, it’s a long lens compared to it’s focal distance.  With the included hood, it’s longer then a 24-105mm lens and nearly as long as the 70-200 f/2.8L IS lens!  Some  users have also reported shorter than average battery life in the camera while shooting with this lens.  That’s someone understandable since focusing does involve moving large glass around, but I’ve never experienced an issue with it.

The 24-70 f/2.8L lens is my every day, go everywhere and shoot everything lens.  Sure, it’s not the only lens in my aresonal but it sure is the most versatile and my most cherished.

In traditional, old school ways of photography, portrait lenses on 35mm film cameras were typically 85mm to about 135mm.  Furthermore, these lenses were also primarily prime lenses, or having a fixed focal length.  At these lengths, the subject is far enough away from you to allow working room, and / or studio lights to be placed without feeling like you’re on top of the subject or so far away you need to scream directions.

Most modern Digital SLR camera bodies have a cropped sensor which effectively multiplies the focal length, 1.5 – 2 times that of the lens, depending on manufacture.  This means if you own a 100mm lens and shoot a Canon with a cropped sensor, your lens is effectively 160mm long.  This is great for sports shooters but not always great for portrait artists.

A few cameras do have full-frame sensors in them, meaning they provide the same focal length as their film counterparts.  100mm lens is a 100mm lens.

Whichever body you shoot, having the final focal length that falls roughly in the 85-130mm range will suite you wonderfully.

In portrait photography, the lens really matters.  Most prefer to shoot fast lenses, that is a lens with a very small aperture number, like f/2.8, f/2.0 or on some lenses, f/1.2.  Shooting these lenses, especially wide open, will create a very small depth of field and bokeh, which helps separate the foreground from the background.  In portraiture, this is key.  The lenses are sharp too, razor sharp!

So, what is all the talk about?  Take a look at this shot on a Nikon D300 (1.5x crop) wit a 50mm f/1.8 lens (75mm effective focal length).

While it’s not a traditional portrait, it shows you how it creates a nice separation for the subject and the city in the background.

Going one step further, the following shot is taken on a 5d mkII (full frame sensor, no crop) with a 100-400 f/4-5.6 lens, at 400mm.

In this portrait of the boy, you’ll see the background is not recognizable, at all.  This is accomplished by the huge shallow depth of field the lens and focal distance provides.

So what lens is perfect?  That really depends on your current camera body and how and where you shoot.  Indoor portraits will be restricted by the size of the room you’re in and shooting at 400mm will be nearly impossible.

While I only have first hand experience with the Canon system, my guidelines and suggestions can be applied across the board.

The Canon 85mm f/1.2 is perhaps one of the more expensive prime lenses made and is absolutely amazing on a full frame body or cropped sensor but if you want to save some money, the 85mm f/1.8 is a great value.  Canon also offers a 100mm f/2 which is very affordable and 135mm f/2, but I’ve found that on cropped sensor bodies they tend to be a little bit long.  For the money, I’ve been extremely happy with a 70-200 f/4L IS lens and even though it’s not a prime, it’s versatile enough to provide me with wonderful images and great bokeh at 200mm, and will work well on either body.

Taking great photographs takes a certain eye, a special way of seeing things. To take pictures that make people go “Wow!” can be quite a bit of work. The more you practice, the better you’ll get.

If you’re interested in becoming a good digital photographer, I recommend the “Shoot Digital Pics Like the Pros,” a free report.

Start by taking a look at these most common mistakes people make when taking digital pictures:

1. Not knowing your camera

If you never read your digital camera’s manual and learn its features and how to use them, you won’t be able to make the most of it.

2. Not using a tripod

Tripods allow you to take the sharpest pictures even in low light. Use one as often as possible.

3. Not giving the camera time to focus

Digital cameras need time to properly focus and get the right exposure. It can take a fraction of a second or a couple of seconds. Account for this when taking pictures.

4. Relying too much on zoom

Using the camera’s zoom feature makes the picture grainier. Get as close to the subject as possible.

5. Taking pictures against the light

This makes the subject dark and the background too bright.

6. Relying too much on the flash

Natural light gives the best pictures, so use it as much as possible. Flash tends to make images look harsh.

7. Not taking enough pictures

It’s almost impossible to take the perfect shot at one try, so take many pictures. With digital photography, this doesn’t cost you extra. Try different angles and compositions.

8. Always putting the subject dead center

Learn the rule of thirds in composition, and you’ll have more interesting pictures.

9. Forgetting to check the horizon

When taking pictures with the horizon showing, make sure it’s level.

10. Selecting a low-resolution setting

Your camera will allow you to select different resolutions. Don’t be tempted to choose a low resolution just to save on memory space. Instead, buy additional memory for your camera and always take your pictures in high resolution.

11. Trying to take too much

Don’t try to include too many things in one picture, such as people and scenery. A picture is more effective when it’s focused on a single subject.

12. Not using the camera

You’ll never know when a good photo op will come up, so have your camera with you at all times.

It may seem like a lot to think about, but with practice, these things will become second nature.

For those who want to learn even more digital photography techniques, check out the free report, “Shoot Digital Pics Like the Pros.” It’s a short but info-filled guide that will have you shooting digital pictures like a pro in no time.

Find out more about “Shoot Digital Pics Like the Pros” here:
www.learndigitalphotographynow.com

1. Turn your flash on outside for portraits of people.  On sunny days, having your camera in auto mode will more than likely trick the meter into thinking it doesn’t need a flash.  The reality is, a flash used to fill in the shadows will give you a much more flatting photo.

2. Always shoot at the highest resolution your camera offers.  memory cards are cheap, don’t save space by shooting at a lower quality.  You may want or need to crop heavily into the photograph at a later time, or make a print larger then 4×6 so you’ll want as much resolution there as possible.  There is no effective way to make a small digital file larger without a significant loss in quality.

3. You can never learn it all, continue your education.  Many people often think that more expensive photography gear will get them better photos, which is only partly true.  Photography, specifically digital photography and post processing is a continuing evolution.  Read blogs on a regular basis, buy a tutorial book and take some classes at the local arts center or community college.  Gear comes and goes, knowledge will always reign supreme.

4. Just because your auto-focus area is in the center of the viewfinder doesn’t mean that’s where you must focus.  This is especially true when photographing people.  Don’t be afraid to fill the frame and focus on something other then the dead center, have fun with photography and experiment!

5. Turn on the highlight notification when you review photos.  Each camera is slightly different but nearly every model has this feature.  What it does is blink any area that is over-exposed when you review the photograph.  This is really helpful when shooting in mixed lighting areas to see if you’re blowing out the highlights.  If you do, it’s easily corrected by some simple exposure compensation most of the time.

Give these five tips a try, I’m sure you’ll get better photographs and enjoy shooting that much more!